What Do Super 120s and Super 150s Mean? A Fabric Guide

Short answer: The "Super" number measures how fine the wool fibers are — higher means finer, softer, and silkier, but also more delicate and wrinkle-prone. It doesn't mean better quality. For a first custom suit, Super 110s–120s in a mid-weight cloth is the sweet spot; save the 150s for special occasions.

What the number actually measures

"Super" refers to the fineness of the wool fiber, measured in microns. Super 100s is around 18.5 microns; Super 150s is around 15 microns — finer than most human hair. Higher number = finer fiber = softer hand and smoother drape. That's all it means. It says nothing about how well the cloth is woven, how long it will last, or whether it suits your life.

The tradeoff nobody mentions

Finer fibers make a more luxurious-feeling cloth, but they're also more fragile. A Super 150s suit drapes beautifully and wrinkles if you look at it wrong; it won't survive twice-a-week wear for years the way a Super 110s will. Think of it like thread count in sheets: beyond a point, you're buying feel, not durability. For a suit you'll wear hard — weekly to the office — Super 100s to 120s is the workhorse range. For weddings, evenings, and occasions, 130s to 150s earns its keep.

Weight matters more than the number

Here's what salespeople skip: fabric weight (grams per meter) affects your comfort more than the Super number. Orange County doesn't do heavy flannel weather. A mid-weight 260–300 gram cloth in Super 120s will serve you better year-round than a featherweight Super 150s that shows every crease. When choosing cloth, decide weight first (climate and season), Super number second (feel and occasion).

What about the mills?

The mill matters because weaving quality is what turns fine fiber into lasting cloth. This is why we cut from mills like Loro Piana and Zegna — the fiber is only as good as the hands that weave it. A well-woven Super 110s from a great mill will out-wear and out-drape a carelessly woven 150s every time. Ask your tailor which mills they carry; the answer tells you where they sit in the market.

Our honest recommendation

First custom suit: navy or charcoal, Super 110s–120s, mid-weight. It'll handle weekly wear, travel well, and still feel like luxury. Second suit: that's when you go finer — a 130s or 150s in a seasonal color, cut for the occasions that deserve it. Build the foundation before the flourishes.

Come feel the difference. Book a consultation at our Costa Mesa studio — 3151 Airway Ave, Suite Q2, Costa Mesa, CA — or call (714) 884-3722. We'll put the cloths in your hands and talk through what fits your life, not just what sounds impressive.