Before you buy a custom suit
#1 Question how “Custom” your suit actually is
The word “custom” has been used too liberally in the world of men’s fashion. Many custom clothiers really offer a Made to Measure garment. MTM clothiers take a pre-made suit and alter it to fit your measurements. While this is better than simply buying off the rack, the design and fit of the clothing will have limitations because it hasn’t been patterned specifically for you.
The ultimate tailoring experience is a truly custom bespoke suit. A bespoke suit is made from scratch, just for you. In other words, no fabric is cut until you’ve been measured.
Bottom line: don’t be fooled into thinking that “custom” and “bespoke” are the same thing. The word bespoke is so widely misused that its meaning has almost been lost! Here is a question to ask to help figure out if a company is a MTM or bespoke: Can I send my own fabric to your manufacturer to make the suit?
#2 Fabric Matters
A chef is only as good as his ingredients; the same can be said about your tailor and his cloth. The type of fabric you choose will determine how a garment feels, looks, and performs over time. Look for 100% worsted wools from a trusted mill and generally avoid synthetic materials.
Don’t get caught up in the “Super” number (thread count is for bed sheets!), either. Some guys think the higher the “super” number the better the cloth. This is not necessarily true. This number – which represents the number of fibers spun into a unit measure of cloth – indicates only the “fineness” of the fibers. It can mean that a cloth will have a great “hand feel” and sheen, but what’s more important is its inverse relationship with durability.
Super 180s and higher become very delicate. These should be reserved for the occasional statement piece when you really want to stand out. For everyday use, stick to somewhere in the Super 110’s - 150’s range.
#3 Determine Your Fit Philosophy
Our English and Italian friends have different opinions on how to cut a suit, so you should decide which one fits your taste and communicate this with your clothier.
For example, traditional British shops will cut with larger allowances (the difference between your body measurements and the measurements of the finished garment). The result is a roomier garment with a smoother drape.
Italian tailors, on the other hand, cut with smaller allowances (closer to the body) and a more “flexible” construction (softer shoulders, less padding, etc). The result is a more form fitting, figure cutting suit.
Last thing to consider on this topic, is to compare Practicality vs Look. You maye LOVE the look of a very tailored/slim suit, but wearing that suit could be uncomfortable, especially if you are planning on dancing or moving quite a bit in it! There is perfect balance and our clothiers and tailors at b.spoke help you find it!
#4 Set Your Expectations
Don’t be a wrinkle chaser. The suit is designed to look pristine on a still, standing body. As you start moving there will be certain locations that wrinkle up. It’s fabric, not magic. We recommend before any big event that you get your suit pressed by taking it to your local dry cleaner and ask for “Press Only”. This will make your suit look fresh and clean for that event!
Certain fabrics will wear(look) better than others. There is no such thing as a “Wrinkle Free” suit fabric, but certain fabrics can be much better then others! When you are picking out your fabric in the beginning, wrinkle it a bit and see how it bounces back. That will be a good indicator on how the fabric will respond.
#5 Start Slow
We recommend starting small and growing, or as our owner Dave Welch says “Baby Steps”. Let us make you 1 custom suit first, confirm your fit and update your paper pattern on file. Once we have your pattern, you can order as many as your heart desires! It’s much easier to make adjustments on 1 suit, then to 5. The same applies for a custom shirt. Let’s take this process a little slower in the beginning so we can build a relationship with you and build your wardrobe to a new level!
#6 Designs, Patterns and Solids
Just because it’s custom, doesn’t mean it has to be loud! Think of your first visit to b.spoke as the first step in building your new wardrobe. Start with versatile basics (Solid Navy and Grey) and slowly build out to seasonal fabrics with more personality. You can wear a solid blue or grey suit to the office three times a week and nobody will notice (especially if you wear a different shirt each time) but your co-workers will call you out if they keep seeing those purple pinstripes.
Also, don’t factor-in the suits you already have in your closet unless you love them and they fit very well. Most guys stop wearing their off-the-rack suits after going custom.
If you already have a strong base and are looking for something specific, don’t be afraid to bring a picture reference to show your clothier.
#7 Take Care of Your Clothing!
Ask your clothier for proper care instructions.
Generally speaking, dry clean your suits as infrequently as possible (only when they're physically dirty from spills or sweat). Dry cleaning is a chemical wash that slowly erodes fabric – essentially scraping away the surface layer. For specific stains, we recommend “Spot Cleaning” where a dry cleaner essentially dry cleans a spot on the suit versus the entire suit.
If the garment simply needs a “refresher”, have it steamed or pressed (which is much cheaper than dry cleaning and effectively cleans it using heat and steam anyway).